There are countless names given to the Ni'ihau shells and the ways
it can be made into a unique lei. It is the oral dictionary, like our
oral language of Hawai'i that we use as a guide. We are reminded that
if a name was given to a certain item, it existed in our island's cultural
history. If it didn't, we just didn't make one up.
Pikake: |
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| One of the most common styles you see to day is the
Pikake style. It consists of two strands of shells, tied together.
The shells most commonly used in a Pikake style lei are the Momi,
and sometimes the Kahelelani. Occasionally, Alilea shells may also
be tied in the Pikake. Style. The picture shows a Pikake lei made
with Onikiniki Momi shells. |

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Kipona:
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| The Kipona style of lei refers to the use of different
types of Ni'ihau shells in a single lei. The most common kipona styles
include a mix of Momi and Kahelelani shells. Pay close attention to
the stringing styles in a Kipona lei - they vary according to the
desire of the lei maker and may include all of the other styles described
on this page. |

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Poepoe: |
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| A Poepoe lei has a more cylindrical smooth look with
a rope-like appearance. A different piercing style of either Momi
or Kahelelani shells allows the lei maker to tie the shells into this
tight circular pattern. More common in Kahelelani shells, lei makers
produce beautifully patterned Poepoe leis. |

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| The Kui Pololei style of lei features shells strung
end to end in a straight line. Typically you will find Laiki (rice
shell) or Momi shells presented in this way. It is also common to
find Kui Pololei leis in multiple strands. This style is the one commonly
used for the multi-strand wedding lei a Ni'ihau bride may wear on
her wedding day. |

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Heliconia:
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| The Heliconia style is a flat lei, using a single string
of Momi and Kahelelani shells, tied in such a way that the lei takes
on the appearance of the Heliconia flower. It is typical to see the
white shades of Momi and the more vibrant shades of Kahelelani used
in this style of lei. |

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Double Pikake:
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| The Double Pikake is a more elaborate version of the
Pikake lei. You'll find Momi shells used in Double Pikakes, and sometimes
you may also find a Double Pikake Kipona lei. These leis tend to be
heavier than Pikake leis, and also less flexible due to the thickness
of the lei. |

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Lu:
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| The Lu style of lei is a straight strung lei with
no tie between the shells. The shells are pierced in a manner with
causes them to flair out, and shells are alternated right and left.
Lu leis may be presented in multiple lengths and number of strands. |

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Lili'u: |
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| The Lili'u lei is affectionately named after Queen
Liliu'okalani, the last queen of Hawai'i. Known also as the crownflower
lei, the Ni'ihauans refer to this style in the name of the queen whos
favorite flower was the crownflower. This style incorporates Momi
and Kahelelani shells in a variation of the Pikake style. Note the
use of the Momi Kahakaha (dark striped) shell in the center of the
picture above. |

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Wili: |
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| The Wili lei is a impressive lei of Kahelelani shells
which are first strung onto string and the wrapped around a cotton
cord. These are rarely made these days and are to be considered a
real treasure. |
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'Olepelepe: |
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| Olepelepe style utilizes the shell of the same name
is a style you might see in a hatband. Shells are sewn onto a backing,
being careful to arrange so the backing is completely covered. These
are also delicate leis, owing to the fragile nature of the shells. |
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| Finishing the Lei |
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| Traditional Ni'ihau leis are finished with cowrie shell
or shells and hook and eye. While it is common today to find single
strand short leis (16 to 20 inches) finished with a more modern barrel
or safety clasp, the multi-strand lei or long single strand lei should
always be finished with puke or sundial shells and some kind of cowrie. |
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This is a traditional style of finishing a triple strand
Momi lei. The reddish sundial shell finished each side, and then all
strings are placed inside a bumpy cowrie to close the lei. |
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This is a more modern version of the finished lei.
In this case, the Onikiniki lei is finished with a yellowish puka
shells (to somewhat match the primary shell color), and a brown
and white cowrie closes the lei.
Note that one does not always use the white bumpy cowrie - the
experienced lei maker works to have the entire lei match is color
if possible. |
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An example of how a cowrie shell can be used to close
a single strand lei. |
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Here is an example of the finishing of a triple strand
which is most familiar: White puka shells, and a white bumpy cowrie
to close the lei. |