Styles of Ni'ihau Leis

 

The Pikake, Kipona, 'Olepelepe, Poepoe, Niu, Kui Pololei, and Lu are all styles of a type or way of piercing and tying a Ni'ihau lei.

 

It is our pleasure to provide you with examples of the different Ni'ihau Lei Pupu styles. While you may start with something as simple as a Momi Pikake choker, you will find a wide variety of other leis to consider as you build your collection !

 

There are countless names given to the Ni'ihau shells and the ways it can be made into a unique lei. It is the oral dictionary, like our oral language of Hawai'i that we use as a guide. We are reminded that if a name was given to a certain item, it existed in our island's cultural history. If it didn't, we just didn't make one up.

Pikake:

 
One of the most common styles you see to day is the Pikake style. It consists of two strands of shells, tied together. The shells most commonly used in a Pikake style lei are the Momi, and sometimes the Kahelelani. Occasionally, Alilea shells may also be tied in the Pikake. Style. The picture shows a Pikake lei made with Onikiniki Momi shells.

 

Kipona:

 

The Kipona style of lei refers to the use of different types of Ni'ihau shells in a single lei. The most common kipona styles include a mix of Momi and Kahelelani shells. Pay close attention to the stringing styles in a Kipona lei - they vary according to the desire of the lei maker and may include all of the other styles described on this page.

 

Poepoe:

 

A Poepoe lei has a more cylindrical smooth look with a rope-like appearance. A different piercing style of either Momi or Kahelelani shells allows the lei maker to tie the shells into this tight circular pattern. More common in Kahelelani shells, lei makers produce beautifully patterned Poepoe leis.

 

Kui Pololei:

 

 
The Kui Pololei style of lei features shells strung end to end in a straight line. Typically you will find Laiki (rice shell) or Momi shells presented in this way. It is also common to find Kui Pololei leis in multiple strands. This style is the one commonly used for the multi-strand wedding lei a Ni'ihau bride may wear on her wedding day.

 

Heliconia:

 
The Heliconia style is a flat lei, using a single string of Momi and Kahelelani shells, tied in such a way that the lei takes on the appearance of the Heliconia flower. It is typical to see the white shades of Momi and the more vibrant shades of Kahelelani used in this style of lei.

 

Double Pikake:

 

The Double Pikake is a more elaborate version of the Pikake lei. You'll find Momi shells used in Double Pikakes, and sometimes you may also find a Double Pikake Kipona lei. These leis tend to be heavier than Pikake leis, and also less flexible due to the thickness of the lei.

 

Lu:

 

The Lu style of lei is a straight strung lei with no tie between the shells. The shells are pierced in a manner with causes them to flair out, and shells are alternated right and left. Lu leis may be presented in multiple lengths and number of strands.

 

Lili'u:

 
The Lili'u lei is affectionately named after Queen Liliu'okalani, the last queen of Hawai'i. Known also as the crownflower lei, the Ni'ihauans refer to this style in the name of the queen whos favorite flower was the crownflower. This style incorporates Momi and Kahelelani shells in a variation of the Pikake style. Note the use of the Momi Kahakaha (dark striped) shell in the center of the picture above.

 

Wili:

 

 

The Wili lei is a impressive lei of Kahelelani shells which are first strung onto string and the wrapped around a cotton cord. These are rarely made these days and are to be considered a real treasure.  

'Olepelepe:

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Olepelepe style utilizes the shell of the same name is a style you might see in a hatband. Shells are sewn onto a backing, being careful to arrange so the backing is completely covered. These are also delicate leis, owing to the fragile nature of the shells.  
   
Finishing the Lei  
Traditional Ni'ihau leis are finished with cowrie shell or shells and hook and eye. While it is common today to find single strand short leis (16 to 20 inches) finished with a more modern barrel or safety clasp, the multi-strand lei or long single strand lei should always be finished with puke or sundial shells and some kind of cowrie.  
This is a traditional style of finishing a triple strand Momi lei. The reddish sundial shell finished each side, and then all strings are placed inside a bumpy cowrie to close the lei.
   

This is a more modern version of the finished lei. In this case, the Onikiniki lei is finished with a yellowish puka shells (to somewhat match the primary shell color), and a brown and white cowrie closes the lei.

 

Note that one does not always use the white bumpy cowrie - the experienced lei maker works to have the entire lei match is color if possible.

   
An example of how a cowrie shell can be used to close a single strand lei.
   
Here is an example of the finishing of a triple strand which is most familiar: White puka shells, and a white bumpy cowrie to close the lei.



 
 

 

 
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